Those who depend on glasses to see the world in detail owe an abundance of gratitude to the Romans, who discovered that glass could be manipulated to magnify things. Like modern-day magnifying glasses, wealthy Romans commissioned glass blowers to make glass spheres. Put against small text, the letters and words became legible.
Over time, glass workers and engineering minds continued to perfect this art, creating thinner and thinner curved glass blocks and lenses. This was no easy feat because, as you can imagine, glass had to be as clear, clean, and smooth as possible to minimize distortion.
While we don’t know the name of the first person who set these glass lenses into a frame, we do know that the longest surviving glasses that we know of date back to the 13th century (the 1200s). They emerged in Italy and were mostly worn by monks, who were some of the only people allowed to learn to read and write at the time.
These early glasses were more cumbersome than the glasses you wear today. Most often, thick curved glass lenses were set into leather or wooden frames. So you can imagine they were far less comfortable than the glasses you might wear yourself while reading this post. As a result, enterprising monks and wealthy glasses-wearers were motivated to improve the design for size, efficiency, and comfort.
Over time, glasses have gone through many design phases. These have included lenses set into frames with a metal “headband” that ran from the bridge of the glasses, up and over the forehead, spanning the crown, and with the other end of the band anchored to the back of the head.
There have been glasses that hinged in the center and perched on the nose like spectacles and glasses held in place with leather or material straps that secured at the back of the head. We also have images, mostly from Renaissance art paintings, of men wearing glasses perched on the nose but secured by an extended handle the wearer could hold on to. This version looked much like the opera glasses you may have seen in images from the 18th – 19th centuries.
As we mentioned above, art renderings form the largest body of evidence that glasses existed during this period. They more or less continued to look the same until the 1700s. By that point, most glasses were worn without any handheld devices necessary. They became “hands-free,” and the lenses continued to get thinner and thinner, and the frames got thinner, too, as glass and metalwork innovation improved over time.
The “first optometrists” provided clients with rudimentary vision tests and then worked with glassblowers to customize the shape of lenses to accommodate their patients’ vision issues. As you can imagine, the bulk of the glasses made during these first several hundred years were devoted to people who were farsighted to help them read.
Even so, eyeglasses were costly and highly prized. They were originally only used by men (women weren’t allowed to be literate for much of the early centuries of glasses-wearing). Once women were able to learn to read, glasses were only available to religious scholars and the super-wealthy classes.
While we can’t give credit to the first person who invented magnifying lenses and the first pairs of eyeglasses, we can pay homage to Benjamin Martin’s innovations. He is one of the most famous 18th-century eyeglass manufacturers. His glasses were named Martin’s Margins and they are still sought after by collectors today. You can Click Here to see a pair.
Scholar, inventor, and politician Benjamin Franklin had a personal interest in improved spectacle design since he needed them to read and write. It was Franklin who invented the first pair of “bifocals,” which allowed the wearer to see far distances and have the ability to read or look at things at a close distance without having to remove their glasses. In the beginning, Franklin did this by cutting two different lenses in half and then replacing them in a frame.
Over time, opticians (those who make eyeglasses) developed the ability to create that effect in a single lens. These innovations are impressive when you consider that Benjamin Franklin’s bifocal improvements of the 1700s are still used in 21st-century eyeglass technology.
Eyeglasses continued to be a luxury for the rich all the way into and beyond the 19th century. Fortunately, the industrial revolution made large-scale production possible. While still pricey, most middle-class adults finally could save up and purchase a pair. As you can imagine, eyeglasses were considered “precious” to the owners since their price made them almost impossible to replace on the spot for all but the upper classes.
With the ease of production came an emphasis on style. In the late-19th and early 20th centuries, eyeglass manufacturers began focusing on style as much as functional improvements. As a result, what was once a “one style fits all,” more or less, became available with differently shaped frames that came in a variety of colors and patterns. Eyeglasses also became more readily available for children, which had largely been left out of the glasses equation unless they were born to wealthy families.
Interestingly, while eyeglasses were largely improved upon in the European and American markets, the first tinted lenses emerged in China during the 12th century. At this time, the lenses were not used to protect eyes from the sun but, rather, to keep people from being able to see the expression in the eyes of Chinese judges during court cases. By the 20th century, tinted glasses were being used more and more for both style and light protection for those with sensitive eyes. In the 1920s, sunglasses were increasingly popular.
Plastic lenses didn’t enter the market until the 1980s, and this was a revolutionary improvement. Now, in addition to being far more affordable, broken lenses were far more dangerous for those who wore glasses on a daily basis. Today, those who wear eyeglasses have a wealth of options available to them, including prescription sunglasses, bifocals, transitional lenses, and both prescription and non-prescription lenses that block the blue light spectrum flood we’re exposed to by our screens.
Those who wear eyeglasses should be grateful for the early innovators of prescription lenses. Without them, we’d be blind! Are you overdue for your next comprehensive eye exam and an updated eyeglass prescription? Schedule a consultation with Atlantic Eye Center.
It’s time for you to choose some new eyeglasses. You may feel utterly swamped by the vast selection of frames out there. Perhaps you are feeling overloaded with information from your latest Google searches. What is the best material? Why do I keep running into this word “acetate”? Why are the prices so different between acetate glasses?
Many glasses are made of acetate. But all acetate eyeglasses are not created equal. Let’s start with the basics.
Acetate is otherwise known as cellulose acetate, zyl or zylonite. Acetate is one of the earliest made synthetic fibers. Remarkably, first used for framing spectacles in the late 1940’s due to problems with previously used plastics. Nowadays it is stunning stuff, with a deep gloss and high transparency. The higher the quality acetate the better the gloss and transparency will look. Wearers often describe the material as a more ‘natural feel’—a first of many differences when compared toto standard plastics.
Acetate is made up of a (bio) polymer derived from wood (tree) pulp and/or natural cotton fibers. These cellulosic fibers have been replaced over the years by cheaper options such as injected nylon and polyester, both of which are petroleum-based plastics. In some cases, nylon is a reasonable material for eyewear—such as for impact or heat resistance in sports eyewear or safety goggles. However, when for fashionable spectacles this material is almost always used to cut cost. The result is a lower quality and less aesthetically appealing final design.
Acetate is vastly preferable for eyeglasses over other plastics for these reasons:
These are several strong attributes demonstrating that this plant-based product is highly unique. Today’s premium acetate frames are known for their lightweight thin constructions and strength. Yet they remain flexible with a glass like clarity. Furthermore, they boast the widest range of finishes—from high luster polish, matte, or brushed.
To achieve the highest quality it is very important that the highest grade of cellulose acetate available is used. Hundreds of elaborate processes go into each frame, and a multitude of craftspeople contribute to the final product.
The level of experience of the craftsperson of each step above has a direct impact on the finish quality of a frame. Investing in quality craftsmanship results in a well-made frame.
To illustrate the difference in quality of acetate glasses we could compare it to coffee. We are all aware of the difference between a great and a gross dose of the stuff. Yet it’s all made the same way, right? Absolutely wrong! It’s all down to how the raw materials are produced, processed and crafted. It’s the same with eyewear, yet even more complicated.
Generally speaking, it is the higher end frame manufacturers located in Japan and Europe who create the finest products. The skill of craftspeople is vital due to the handmade nature of acetate frames. Japanese artisans are world renowned and frames made in Japan are generally considered superior. They provide intricate attention to detail when working with acetate. Legendary producer of the material, Takiron, is known to produce a harder acetate which consequently holds it’s shape better-even with very thin frame designs. For this reason Japanese acetate (zyl) is often preferred and has material longevity that is unrivaled.
However, Italian acetate, such as Mazzucchelli, has it’s benefits as well. The Italians are brilliant craft workers with a long history working with acetate. Mazzucchelli has a different process in how they cut and cure the material which is called “block acetate”. The result is some of the most beautiful “Havana” tortoise color acetate on the market. With nice blending of the light and dark spots of a tortoise color. The only drawback is the material is a bit softer than its Japanese counterpart and may lose its shape more quickly over time.
Chinese manufacturers are improving quickly, however, are generally less experienced due to the high employee turnover rates in China today. Thus the quality is not to the level of Japan or Italy. Known to be developing their skills, perhaps it is only a matter of time before the Chinese will be producing premium quality eyewear.
Although clear glasses frames have been around for many years, they just recently gained in popularity. Crystal-clear acetate eyeglasses are BIG news this season. Not only a cool alternative to rimless frames, but you can share their eco-friendly and renewable energy roots with pride.
Frames like Platte in Diamond or Richmond in Citrine are handcrafted from first class acetate in a thrilling translucent finish. Being colorless or with a slight tint, they are almost invisible from afar. While many of us are used to choosing bold frames in darker colors, this translucent trend is not to be missed. Clear framed glasses go well with almost any complexion and outfit. The ultimate, timeless piece.
Acetate retains its vibrant color over time due to its hue being embedded in the material, as opposed to being sprayed on. This technique also prevents any color peeling. Unique aging stabilizers in acetate further prevent fading or discoloration from skin contact or UV light.
If you prefer dark colors then check out laminated versions with the light colors on the interior side, which can make your eyewear ‘vanish’ from your visual field when you wear them. On the other hand, an all-black frame may appear more visible at all times on both interior and exterior sides.
When considering acetate over other materials, it may be worth asking yourself the following questions:
Although frames are all considered the same product, they have HUGE differences. Think of the ethos behind our coffee analogy. Finally, whether you wish to frame your face with symmetrical square, preppy round, slanted cat eye or something in between, we strongly suggest exploring acetate frames. They really are quite a spectacle…
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